A. Measuring Instructions
• Draw a simple floor plan showing all the walls that will have cabinets. Drawing doesn’t have to be accurate, but needs to be large enough for multiple measurements to be written on it legibly.
• Assign each wall a number/letter for easy reference.
• Measure the overall length of each wall. Accuracy is important so try to be within a ¼”- ½” tolerance.
• Make sure to also get measurements for ceiling height on each wall.
• Measure each segment of the wall: corner to outside edge of first opening (if any), outside edge of first opening to outside edge of second opening and continue until you’ve covered the full length of the wall.
• Remember that the trim or casing is considered part of the door or window.
• Measure the space between the floor and the window.
• Note the locations of all permanent features such as outlets, switches, water lines and gas lines.
• Measure from the nearest corner or edge of a wall to the center point of the permanent feature. Measure the space between the floor and the feature.
• These measurements and locations are important since they will determine where certain appliances in your kitchen can be placed.
B. Planning your design
• Roughly lay out which cabinets and features you want and where they will be located. Take into account the permanent features in your space as they will dictate where certain appliances must go
• Create a cohesive and finished look in your kitchen by adding finished panels, fillers and toe kicks.
C. Finished panels – Fillers – Toe kicks
• It is recommended to use an applied finished end (same material as the door) if a cabinet end will be visible. This will maintain a cohesive look around the kitchen. Finished Ends are most commonly found at the end of a run of cabinets, on tall cabinets next to base or upper cabinets, and the ends and backs of islands and peninsulas. Finished Ends must be ordered separately and applied in the field. IMPORTANT: Finished ends add ¾” to the overall cabinet width. Make sure to calculate finished end thicknesses when designing your layout.
It is recommended to leave 2” of space between a cabinet and a wall. This space is used for “wiggle room” in the case of varying field conditions and is covered using a filler piece (same material as the door). Fillers are sized based on the neighboring cabinet’s height and come pre-sized for base, wall and tall cabinets. Fillers are designed to be installed flush with the top of the door of the neighboring cabinet. Pre-sized fillers are available in 3”w and 6”w, but can be cut down to fill the empty space between cabinets and/or walls. Fillers used to fill in gaps between cabinets and walls, cabinets and cabinets or cabinets and appliances.
• All tall and base cabinets are raised off the ground using plastic leg levelers. Toe Kick Fronts (same material as the door) can be attached to the leg leveler brackets in order to hide underneath a cabinet. This will give your kitchen a finished look and prevent dust and debris from traveling under your cabinets. Toe kick fronts come in 8’ lengths and must be cut down in the field based on the layout of your kitchen. To determine how many toe kick fronts are needed, calculate all sides of a base or tall cabinet that will be visible. Make sure to count all sides of an island or a peninsula. Divide the total number of inches calculated by 96 and that will be how many Toe Kick Fronts you need. It is always recommended to order additional pieces in case of miscalculations or varying factors in the field.