Please read the entire installation guide before building. These instructions describe installation for our cabinet line in a standard drywall over 2″ x 4″ or 2″ x 6″ wood framing. It is recommended to have a two (2) person crew during the installation and assembly process. If any aspect of your installation does not conform to this description or if you are unable to perform the installation, you should contact a licensed contractor for assistance. WARNING: Although this installation guide is provided, Varsa Design is not liable for installations or field conditions. Installations must be done by a trade professional, as they can check the condition of the wood studs or drywall to make sure they can support the cabinets and contents prior to installation. Additional steps may be required depending on the location of the installation (earthquakes, hurricanes, etc).
1. Impact cordless driver / drill + spare battery
2. Pozi bit or square pocket-hole head bit
3. Regular Phillips head bit & screwdriver
4. Step ladder
5. Measuring tape
6. 4′ level (2′ level & 8’ level optional)
7. Stud finder
8. Shims (as needed)
9. Assorted drill bits / with countersinks
10. Quick Clamps
11. Gloves (optional)
12. Moving blankets, cardboard, or brown hardy board to lay underneath the cabinet during the
All hardware to build our cabinets comes standard with each unit. Screws to secure cabinets to the wall are not included with the assembly hardware provided with the cabinet.
The following additional hardware is required for installation:
1. 3″ screws for securing cabinet to wall studs.
2. 1 ¼” screws for securing cabinets together through the sidewalls, and for attaching countertops to base cabinets Screw Head Covers (as needed)
1. Locate area for cabinet assembly.
2. Unpack pallet and sort parts into groups (decks by decks, bottoms by bottoms, etc)
3. Lay down moving blankets or cardboard to protect the cabinets and flooring
4. Begin assembling per cabinet (see separate cabinet assembly instructions)
WARNING: Do not leave parts in the direct sunlight as the excessive heat may cause material to warp. Excessive heat may also affect edging.
Drawing reference level lines across the back of each cabinet will help everything line up during installation.
1. ALL CABINETS: mark level lines 4” from the top and 4” from the bottom.
2. WALL UPPERS OVER 30’’ H: mark one additional midpoint line equally spaced between the top and bottom level lines
3. PANTRY CABINETS: mark two additional lines equally spaced between the top and bottom level lines
1. Identify the minimum toe height needed for base and pantry cabinets. If the wall has an exposed concrete curb, locate the tallest point on the footing and choose a toe kick height that clears it. Keep in mind all floor variation and begin from the highest point on the floor or curb.
2. Identify the installation location for cabinetry. Take the following into consideration:
– IF CABINET RUN HAS A WALL END: begin installation from the wall end side (filler side)
– IF CABINET RUN IS CAPTURED ON BOTH SIDES: begin installation from one wall end and move towards other wall. Make sure there is sufficient space for the last cabinet of the run along with a filler (if applicable)
– IF CABINET RUN GOES ONTO ADJACENT WALL: begin installation from the shared corner. If the layout includes a blind corner, install that cabinet first.
3. Identify any wall issues such as humps or valleys using a straight edge. Wall repairs and/or appropriate shimming will have to be used to repair these areas. Never cover any venting with a cabinet.
4. Layout installation on the wall by locating where the first cabinet will be positioned. Mark the starting point on the wall using a pencil (never use pen). For wall upper cabinets, measure from the level line of the base cabinet to the bottom of the wall upper cabinet. If a pantry cabinet is being used, make sure the top of the wall upper cabinet matches with the top of the pantry cabinet.
1. Using a stud finder, locate and mark all stud locations on the wall. Screw into the wall to verify that the screw securely holds to the stud. You can then approximate the stud thickness (~1.5”) and put an “X” at the dead center. Studs are usually placed 16” away from each other, center to center, so after locating the first stud, the remaining studs should be located using standard framing practices. Write the measurement on the wall next the center stud mark.
2. Transfer the stud locations from the wall marks onto the back for the first cabinet. Make a mark on each level line at the correct location.
3. From the back of the cabinet, pre-drill all screw holes using a 1/8” drill bit with countersink. You could also create an indicator hole by plunging a screw in from the back of the cabinet. Base cabinets and wall upper cabinets less than 30”h require a minimum of 4 screws. Wall upper cabinets between 36”- 54”h require a minimum of 6 screws. Pantry tall cabinets over 72”h require a minimum of 8 screws.
1. Line up the first cabinet to the starting mark on the wall. If the first cabinet is a wall upper with a base cabinet beneath it, install the wall upper first. Installation style may vary.
2. For base or tall pantry cabinets, locate a toe height greater than or equal to the tallest portion of the floor or curb, which will be the tallest toe height.
If using leg levelers, set the cabinet as needed and adjust the legs for level and plumb. Rooms often have concrete curbs to set the back of the cabinet on, so leg levelers may not be required. In this instance, spacer blocks should be used to aid in installation.
3. For wall upper cabinets, pre-start 3” screws in each screw hole inside the cabinet to make the installation process easier. Use a level to ensure the cabinet is level and plumb, shim if necessary.
4. Locate a pre-drilled indicator hole towards the center on the inside of the cabinet. Drive a 3” screw into the wall stud with an impact drill.
5. Repeat the process with the remaining cabinets, making sure to transfer stud measurements, pre-drill screw holes and confirm cabinets are level and plumb
For cabinets at the end of a run, a finished end is optional and is generally used for higher end installs. Alternatively, screw head covers can be placed on top of screw heads to give the end a finished look. When using applied finished ends, remember to take into account the ¾” added thickness for total width dimension.
– Line up finished end to match top of door or drawer front, then clamp the finished end into place. Finished ends should be flush with the front of the door or drawer front, generally extending 7/8” passed the cabinet front.
– Fasten with 1 ¼” screws from the inside of the cabinet in all four corners. Use additional screws for cabinets over 30”h.
Install counter tops above base cabinets to create a usable workspace.
– Line up counter top to be flush with the end of the base run (including the applied end when necessary). Push the counter top against the wall, then clamp it into place.
– Fasten with 1 ¼” screws from the inside of the cabinet in all four corners. For counter tops 18- 48”W, use at least four screws. For longer counter tops, add two screws per additional foot in length.